As a part-time resident in Palm Springs for the past ten years and a frequent visitor since 1975, I promised David that I would give some guidance about eating out. I eat out a lot, but I am a creature of habit. I have drawn on the advice of my children who have more expensive tastes. This is not a comprehensive guide. Almost all the restaurants are on Highway 111 (Palm Canyon Drive in Palm Springs), which extends at least 25 miles through the desert communities.
My favorite: Peeraya Thai: 320-8385 (Tel). 2249 N. Palm Canyon Drive. Palm Springs. This restaurant is a hole in the wall perhaps a quarter-mile north of the Riviera on the main drag. Every time I come to Palm Springs, I eat here at least twice. It is owned by Noi and his two sisters who are the cooks. To me, this is the best Thai restaurant in the U.S., perhaps in the world, because I have tried many in Europe and Thailand itself. The restaurant was featured in the New York Times; how they found out about our local secret, I will never know. Try the Somtum (Green Papaya Salad), but please specify how spicy you like it. If you end up with it too hot, cool down with the wonderful coconunt ice cream. Everything is good here. Of course, you must have the Tom Yum Koong (Spicy Shrimp Soup), with the heavenly lemon grass. At dinner, I like the Cashew Nut Pork; my wife swears by the Barbecued Chicken or the Chicken with Noodles, but I don’t eat birds, so it is hearsay. Pad Thai is very tasty. Lunch is 5.95: soup or salad plus entrée. As for drinks, try the Singha beer. Noi’s wine list is less than inspiring, but his Chateau St. Jean Johannesburg Reisling (a little too sweet for me) matches well with the spicy food. Otherwise, if you bring your own bottle, he will charge you $3 corkage fee or nothing; if he tries to charge you a corkage fee, mention my name. See if it works. He is closed on Sunday lunch because he has to drive to L.A, to pick up the good Thai ingredients. (By the way, if you want to purchase your own wine two supermarkets [Albertsons and Statler] are at Vista Chino and Sunrise, about ½ mile if you turn left on Vista Chino when you leave the hotel. Look for the specials! The wine prices are good, especially for Californian wine. There is also a liquor market one block away at Vista Chino and Palm Canyon, but the prices are higher).
Edgardo’s Veracruz Café: This restaurant located at Alejo and Palm Canyon is a marvel, because this is real Mexican food. I always choose the Cochinita Pibil (baby pork in banana leaves), and my wife varies between Camarones a la Diablo (spicy sprimp) or Soup of the Desert (a very interesting combination, featuring cactus and black beans). I don’t recommend the margaritas; they are weak. The next entry is better for the drinks, but the food is mediocre. Opposite Edgardo’s is Pepper Thai. I used to go there before Peeraya’s opened.
Las Casuelas Terraza, downtown Palm Springs. This is a hot place downtown, with excellent margaritas, good music and ambience. The food is so-so. If you drive, Las Nuevas Casuelas on Hwy. 111 in Rancho Mirage is better. On a sunny day, lunch there outside is wonderful. An alternative for margaritas in downtown Palm Springs is Del Rio’s Taqueria at Taquitz and Indian Canyon: very popular, I don’t know why.
Peabody’s: A jazz bar on Palm Canyon in downtown Palm Springs. I have never tried the food.
Deli: The Palm Springs landmark (Nate’s) closed down, so now you have to make do with Sherman’s, two blocks north of Palm Canyon on Taquitz.
California Pizza Kitchen, downtown at Palm Canyon and Taquitz: A chain, but pretty good. Pizzas, pastas and salad. Good wine is expensive. I have Sierra Nevada Pale Ale on draft (but not on the menu); many like their lemonade. Next door is Hamburger Hamlet. Don’t be put off by the name. Very good french fries and beer.
Delhi Palace: Within walking distance of the Riviera, south on Palm Canyon. Good robust Indian food! The late Sonny Bono’s favorite take-out place; I have not seen Mary there. There is a Japanese restaurant next door; I have never been. Japanese food is not my style except for home-cooked tempura.
Blue Coyote Café, again south on Palm Canyon on the right: Southwestern food. Yummy!
Italian: A problem; no clear-cut favorite. I like Riccio’s, next door to Peeraya, but my son hates it (perhaps he chose the wrong dish?). Tony’s Mamma Mia in downtown Palm Springs is quite good. I used to go to Banducci’s (dinner only) on Palm Canyon on the left at the south side of town for good, basic Italian food, but I have not been in 2 years (the restaurant opened in 1964, prehistoric times for Palm Springs). The Cedar Creek Inn is opposite; it has a good reputation for California cuisine. I also used to go to Alfredo’s, now relocated to the Holiday Inn on Belardo one block to the right on Taquitz from Palm Canyon. I don’t know whether the ownership changed.
Chinese: This is a big problem in the desert. The best is City Wok, but its location is so obscure that I won’t even try to direct you (however, there is a branch on El Paseo in Palm Desert which is more accessible, but I have never been). The nearest is Chen Ling on Palm Canyon. Not up to our standard. We tried The Great Wall in downtown once; O.K. but not great. The newest is Taipei in downtown Palm Springs; never been. The Supreme Dragon (on Hwy 111 in the Rimrock Shopping Center [the supermarket Vons is there] a mile south of downtown) has been recommended, but it it looks expensive for Chinese.
Fish: No recommmendation. Seafood (shrimp, mussels, etc.) is fine at the ethnic restaurants, and Edgardo’s can give you a good Red Snapper Veracruz, but I have never located a good fish restaurant per se.
Steak Houses: Billy Reed’s is a few blocks north on Palm Canyon. Went once. There are plusher places downtown: LG Steakhouse, St. James, Kaiser Grille. But this is not my scene.
French: My son likes Le Vallauris on Taquitz two blocks to the right from Palm Canyon. I think that he was mesmerized more by the old-fashioned waiters than the food.
Muriel’s Supper Club in downtown Palm Springs will charge you a lot for “progressive American cuisine.” Does that entice you?
Starbucks: If you are up early or out late, the main Starbucks is at the Palm Canyon-Taquitz Canyon intersection, the center of the universe in Palm Springs. See you there!
Restaurant Row: If you drive down Highway 111 to Palm Desert and turn right on El Paseo, you will come across restaurant after restaurant. I rarely go, so you need to check it out. The Daily Grill is an outpost of a West L.A. favorite, and there is a California Pizza Kitchen here (also, the City Wok). Fancier places too. My youngest son (the rich one!) swears that Cuistot (French cuisine, of course) is the best restaurant in the desert. Outside my price range, and probably yours too!
Brunch: If you are there on Sunday morning, you might want to try the Ritz-Carlton, turn right up Frank Sinatra Drive going south on Hwy. 111 in Rancho Mirage. See how the rich live!
Tramway: Everybody who comes to Palm Springs takes the tramway up the San Jacinto Mountains (not me, I have a phobia about cable cars!). Now they have new 360 degree circulating cars. It is expensive (around $18), but for about $5 more you can “Ride and Dine” after 4 p.m. I can’t guarantee the food, but at that price, who cares? If you Ride and Dine, go up while the sun is still shining on the valley. There are hiking trails to give you an appetite. (Tel: 760-325-1391)
Conclusion: I did not understand how complicated this project would be. There are so many restaurants in the valley it is difficult to keep up. Restaurants come and go. A new 4-star favorite is Johannes at Indian Canyon and Arenas; very expensive. This is merely a sample; experiment, and please let me know if you find any treasures. The evenings will be cold, but if you are lucky and the sun shines, outdoor lunch is available at many places. Enjoy!
Harry Richardson