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This is Winter, my first pig from back in August 1999. I got her from the humane society when I knew nothing about guinea pigs.

GP’s make very good pets for children and adults. They are loveable, cuddly and have sweet personalities. GP’s are more closely related to rabbits than their cousins; hamsters, gerbils and mice. Unlike cats and dogs it will not bark, howl, pounce on you or need to go out to the bathroom. They will give you many hours of love and entertainment. This guide will give you an idea of what it is like to own a GP and what kind of care it requires.

Housing:

GP’s need a flat-bottomed cage with approximately 2 square feet of space for 1 pig, 1 sq ft for each additional pig. These are minimum requirements, the more room you give your pigs, the more they will move around. Wire bottoms are not recommended and can cause foot inflammations. Cages can be the plastic bottomed kind with a wire top, a metal cage with a flat bottom or a homemade cage can be easily made. A simple low-sided plastic storage container, with wire shelving lashed around it with plastic ties would work fine. Or if you are handy, any combination of plastic, metal and wood. Since GPs don’t climb, jump, or worry at latches, anything as high as 11" will be enough to keep them in, and no top is needed unless you have other animals in the house. Most pigs will feel more comfortable with a box to hide in. A cardboard box, plastic tube, or a commercial pet home will work fine. When placing their cage, keep in mind that the more fresh air you can give your pig, the healthier it will be. Therefore it is a good idea to place their cage near a open window or in an area that is well venilated. Sunshine is fine too, as long it's not too much. See the Outside directions below for more instruction.

Litter:

It has been proven that aroma of cedar and some pine litters causes respiratory problems in small animals, however there are many safe and inexpensive alternatives. Shredded newspaper is the very cheapest, however it will need changing more often. There is also pelletized newspaper (Yesterdays News), paper products, (Carefresh) treated pine shavings, (Kiln dried) as well as pelletized pine, or aspen shavings or pellets. Some of these products may be sold as horse bedding, but it will work fine for guinea pigs as long as the aroma isn't strong. Pine pellets sold as wood stove pellets are fine too as long as they're 100% pure, no additives. You need to read the ingredients on the litter before you buy it, since GPs will eat any litter you give them. They should not have anything with clay in it or ‘clumping action’, such as regular cat litter or crystals, as this could prove fatal. Also regular straw is not recommended.

GP’s should have a good supply of food, since they eat continually throughout the day and night. Guinea pigs are vegetarians and their diet should mainly consist of pelletized alfalfa/grain mixes and loose hay. The hay can be timothy, bermuda, or any other grass-type hay. Hay can be picked up at horse or feed supply houses for as little as 50 cents a bag, and is much fresher than the pet store kind. I do not recommend the fiesta mixes because most pigs will pick out the parts they like and leave the rest. Also manufacturers will put anything into these mixes, including stuff that’s really not good for them such as unshelled sunflower seeds. You should use pellets for guinea pigs since they have added vitamin C.

They should also be feed fresh vegetables or fruit once or twice a day as a supplement. They like kale, parsley, cilantro, chard, green peppers, carrots, broccoli, tomatoes, romaine lettuce, cabbage, pears, cantelope, apples and oranges. These should be raw. You can experiment with other produce, and sometimes the animal may need to be exposed to the same food more than once before trying it. Also the tops off of many fresh vegetables are good for them. Grass is ok as long as it hasn’t been treated with chemicals, be careful of weeds though. (and no potatoes)

Water should be supplied at all times by a ball tipped water bottle mounted on the side of the cage. Most GP’s cannot drink from a dish, and will knock it over or get it full of litter. The water bottle should be rinsed and refilled no less than once a day, since they backwash when they drink. Also GP’s are the only animals that can get scurvy, so they need vitamin C supplements! The vegetables listed above all have a good amount vitamin C in them with the exception of carrots and pears. You may also add a liquid vitamin to their water, guinea pig or hamster vitamin drops are fine, or you may crush plain children's vitamin C pills and mix a small amount in water.

Handling:

Guinea Pigs are prey animals. That means, they will instinctively run away from anything reaching down for them (ie an owl). So the first rule is to gently corner it. Once it is cornered, then it should be fairly easy to reach over and pick it up. It should be held with 2 hands, one hand supporting the rear end, and another supporting the upper body. An alternative way is to put one hand under the belly between their hind legs and another over the top to steady them. If the pig starts scrabbling, it means it feels insecure and might need to adjust it’s position. When you are done holding it, lower it gently to the floor or into the cage while holding it securely.

They are not built for any kind of jump or fall and must be prevented from this or they could break a leg. In the same way, your animal must never be left unattended on a couch, chair, bed, table, or counter!

Warnings over, pigs are a delight to hold. It will gladly sit quietly on your chest and let you pet it all you want. While you are getting to know one another, the pig might try to hide it’s head under something. If it seems to be having a hard time, you can put a towel over it and it will get adjusted and calm right down. Pigs do not scratch to show displeasure. Most pigs do not bite. The ones that do will execute warning nibbles that means it feels unsettled. After a few minutes it may calm down and be fine. If it continues, you probably just want to put it down and try again later. I have rarely had a pig draw blood even when really mad. If the claws bother you, they can be blunted by trimming so they’re not so sharp. Pigs love to be scratched on the head and between the eyes. If the pig will not tolerate being held for some reason, you can start slowly by petting them in their cage and work up to sitting in your lap. Some pigs are shoulder parrots and will scramble towards your head. Be careful that it doesn’t get into a situation where it could fall off the chair. When it is ready to go down, it may suddenly become restless after being quiet, or it may butt your chin with its head. Small children should be supervised constantly when handling the GP’s so it will not be harmed. It should never be put in a pocket, handled roughly, teased, poked, or dropped.

Occasionally there's a pig who is a leaper and can jump out of a regular cage. Usually younger or untrained pigs are at fault here, and they'll settle down with maturity and help. Meanwhile you can raise the bars on their cage to a height of 16 or more inches to keep them in. If you are puzzled about how they are getting out, watch them carefully and you'll eventually catch them at it. Sometimes fixing one spot will solve the entire problem.

Another question new owners have is what to do if your pig gets lost in the house. First of all pigs are not like hamsters who are self-sustaining and can stay lost in your house for weeks. Instead if you leave the pig alone and pretend to ignore it, it will come out from behind the couch in a few minutes. So I recommend moving away from it's hiding place, and having 2-3 people in on a plan to block the pig off from retreat once it comes out, while another person gently corners it and picks it up. Left to themselves, pigs will go in and out of hiding places every few minutes, and there's no need to go to alot of trouble to force it out. Bribes may work, as well as a gentle tap with a broom if the siege seems to be lasting a long time.

Sleeping:

GP’s rest during the night, and are quiet except for water bottle rattling and soft noises. Though they might need some settling down time if they have just been out playing. GP’s don’t go into deep sleeps but usually nap with their eyes open, in the night as well as day. If you see your animal sitting very still, staring into space, it is probably asleep.

Talking:

Unlike rabbits, GP’s are talkers. They will make little percolating sounds while walking, and may make soft noises while you are holding or petting them. Another sound they make is a medium to loud "wheek". This means they want food or attention. Some pigs will wheek when they hear the refrigerator door or plastic bags rattling, which mean vegetables to them. They may make a fussy noise while being held, which means they are uncomfortable. Another noise they make is a rattle, which sounds like a loud purr. This is not like a cat purr however but a domination/mating noise. They may do a brief rattle in reaction to a loud noise. Otherwise, a rattle is accompanied by a slow strut with butt waving for other GP’s. Also if you have more than one pig, they will test their domination by standing face to face and putting their heads up, mouthing each other’s ears, or trying to mount the other regardless of sex. Young guinea pigs will sometimes run and squeak and jump and shake like something is seriously wrong with them. It is nothing of the sort, they are simply showing their high spiritedness and joy of life. It's a pleasure to see the little ones do this, and sometimes nearby adults will pick it up too. GP’s make a variety of noises, and with experience you will eventually be able to decode their language.

GP’s need exercise time outside of their cage, especially if they're in a small cage. You can make a designated area in your house for this purpose, plastic pools or kiddie corrals will work too. You will need to take some precautions to protect them from harm and to protect your things. GPs do not chew upholstry, walls or carpet. But they do chew wood, cardboard and electric wires. Because of this, put all wires in the exercise area 1 foot from the floor--out of their reach. Any place you don’t want them to be, such as behind a heavy piece of furniture, can be blocked off with a piece of cardboard, taped or wedged into place. Doorways can be blocked with a 10 inch high strip of cardboard. The bottoms of wooden furniture can be protected with cardboard masking about 6" high. Do not buy wheels or exercise balls for them as they cannot use them. You can provide them with plenty of cardboard items to play with. Boxes, tubes, tunnels made with kleenex boxes or cereal boxes are great fun for them (remove any plastic film). Plastic tubing from home improvement stores works well too. PT rolls are ok, but please slit them lengthwise for their own protection. Many breeders use bird toys and balls. Don’t worry if you and your pig need to make some adjustments before exercise time works. It will take awhile to get to know and trust each other.

Optimal temperature for GP’s is between 65 and 85° . They can handle lower temperatures but must be in an enclosure to shelter them from the wind, and have plenty of warm material to tunnel in. GP’s cannot handle high temperatures and must be kept in cooling/air conditioning in the summer. Sunlight is ok as long as it is not too warm, and there is a place to get out of the sun. For outside playtime, an enclosure such as their cage top or wire fencing will work fine. (Mine were fine as long as we sat with them.) They will eat any grass they’re standing on, so pick a place with clean grass and don’t forget to protect them from other animals.

Guinea pigs are herd animals and appreciate the company of other pigs. Females can usually be housed together after an introduction period. Males will most likely need separate cages, but will still enjoy being able to see and hear each other. When putting any pigs together, they should be watched closely for several days to make sure there is no fighting. Pigs do establish a pecking order and those types of challenges are normal. However if they look like they're going to tear each other apart, it is best to separate them. Tricks that will help them get along are; 1) baths to mask their personal odor, 2) loud noises like clapping or banging to scare them into stopping, 3) a squirt bottle filled with water. Don't put your hand into the middle of a fierce fight. Use an object like a piece of cardboard to separate them before picking them up. Teeth chattering is also a sign of aggression/fear.

Weaned males can be put with other young males, their father, or another older male. Getting two older males to be roomies is more of a challenge, but not impossible. Start out by having them run together during exercise time, and see how that goes. If they are tolerant of each other after several days, you can try giving them a supervised cage visit, but don't be suprised if the cage owner is none too happy about the intrusion. It may take several lengthening visits before they can live together full time. Make sure there is plenty of room for them to move around, and it might be a good idea to temporarily give them each their own water and food bowl. During this process you might find you have a highly aggressive pig who wants nothing to do with anyone. You may want to leave an aggressive male by himself, or put him with an older female who can take care of herself, but watch out if you don't want babies. Aggressive females can usually live with relatives or long time friends. Males also go through a stage between 3-5 months where they may suddenly not get along with cagemates, including their brothers! It's best at this point when you notice fighting, to separate them until it's over. Otherwise you may end up with damaged pigs. All pigs settle down tremendously at about 8 months of age, and you can try again with roomates even if they have been previously intolerant.

Training:

Within limitations, pigs can be trained. However they are not singularly intelligent like dogs. They are herd animals in nature, and their intelligence lies in group dynamics. Thus the walking noises which always lets others know where they are. You can work with your pig to achieve a simple goal such as holding still, cooperating with a process, or to overcome some shortcoming like excessive fear or biting. Try to demonstrate the desired behavior over a period of time; scolding to punish bad behavior; encouragement and bribes to overcome fear. Pigs over time can be trained to walk up to you during floor time and take food from your hand. With work they may come to trust you enough to let you pet them on the floor or pick them up without running.

Start by sitting on the floor with them during run time. Let them run by you, but don't reach out for them. After awhile they'll learn to trust and not be afraid to go near you. Also hand feed them in their cage. Once they've overcome their fear, you can work on hand feeding them outside their cages too. The ultimate is to have a pig that will let you pet it outside of the cage without running. Not every pig is capable of this, but it sure is nice. Very tame pigs will come and stand on your foot (or try to climb your leg), or scramble in your lap (if you're within reach) or let you scratch their head. Age helps with this process too. Young pigs are naturally jumpy and won't be able to master these behaviors until they are more settled.

Cages should be thoroughly cleaned once a week: all used litter thrown out, the cage rinsed and dried, and new litter put in. In addition to this, I would recommend changing the litter halfway through the week or spot cleaning every day. With the exception of babies, GP’s will try not to pee on you or the rug and will aim for newspapers, cardboard or litter. They will also not go in the middle of the floor, but will look for a dark corner. I solved this problem by putting an old towel in their favorite corner and washing it as needed. It’s best to give them access to their cage during run time, so they can jump in if needed. GP’s do poop where they stand and this can’t be helped. However it can be easily swept or vacuumed up and will not stain carpets. Normal GP urine is a milky white that will dry to a white scale on hard surfaces, and normal feces are hardened pellets. (The scale can be soaked off surfaces in about 5 minutes with vinegar.) GP’s have complicated digestive systems and recycle some of their food like cows. However instead of chewing their cud (GP’s are incapable of throwing up), they have special poops that they eat. These are very soft, unlike the other ones. If you watch your pig closely, you may see them ducking under to retrieve one. This is normal behavior. Note: Guinea pigs are allergic to most antibiotics and should not be exposed to any anti-bacterial soaps, bleach, cleaners or other products claiming to be anti-bacterial.

GP’s are basically clean animals, however you may want to give them an occasional bath.

You may wash your GP with any mild shampoo that is not flower or food flavored. Put your pig in the sink or large bowl with something like a wash cloth or rubber mat to stand on. Shampoo everywhere except the face, then rinse thoroughly. Wrap them in a towel, and let drain for a few minutes in a large box or laundry basket. Then blow dry on low, fluffing the hair and being careful not to burn the skin. When the pig is dry if it's still shivering, you may wrap it in a dry towel and put it back in the basket for up to a half hour to warm up. Your pig must be kept warm during the entire process as they can catch a chill easily. Thus daytime is better for giving baths. When dry, comb or brush gently. For long-haired pigs, see below. Keep their head out of the water. Never leave them unattended during a bath, keep your hand on them while in the "tub" in case they decide to leap.

Males have a secretion spot that will need extra attention during baths. This is from a gland at the tip of their tailbone. You should put extra shampoo or dish detergent on the spot to gently scrub away any buildup. If there's quite a mess, soak the area in water to soften it and shampoo again until clean.

Nails can also be trimmed with an animal nail clipper. I recommend the kind usually found in bird sections that look like a pair of small scissors with C shape at the end. Simply hook the nail in the notch and cut. GP’s do have veins in their nails like many animals. If you have a light colored animal, you should be able to see the vein. Cut 2 millimeters below the vein in order to prevent bleeding. If your animal has dark nails, be more conservative and cut only the ends, but trim more often. Front nails should be checked to make sure they are not cutting into the palm of the hand, since they tend to curve inward.

Ears should be cleaned gently with a q-tip. If there is alot of wax that needs to be softened, use q-tips dipped in mineral oil to clean and condition the ears.

Any cuts can be treated with regular peroxide, dry skin with a small amount of mild skin lotion, but nothing greasy. Be very careful with anti-bacterials, since guinea pigs are allergic to most of these chemicals. Regular Neosporin ointment is safe to use in small amounts.

If your pet has an ear tag, it should be checked occasionally and cleaned with peroxide if needed. If it has rotated out of position, you can gently move it back so that the numbers show on top.

Long haired guinea pigs are a special committment, and you should think about whether you have the extra time needed before adopting a long-haired animal. Many people enjoy the the opportunity to bond with their animal and take their training to a different level. Long haired breeds include Silkies (hair growing back from face) Peruvians (hair growing over face) and Texels (wavy or curly long hair). These directions are for grooming pet or breeding quality pigs. There are special instructions for grooming show pigs not included here. You will need a metal pronged comb or brush with end tips, and a pair of good scissors.

In addition, you will need a cloth covered raised area with your grooming tools within reach. A small plastic stool or medium sized storage bin with a lid and a towel draped over it works well. Gently comb the hair, working slowly on any knots. This a good time to train your pig to stay while being worked on. Every time it tries to take off, direct it or place it back where you want it. In time it will learn that when it’s on the stand, it needs to hold still. Never leave it unattended on a high surface though, and make sure it does have enough room to stand comfortably without losing footing. If the hair is sticky or too knotted to comb, then your pig is due for a bath.

Long haired pigs will need to be bathed once a month, and have their hair cut approximately every two months as needed. It is a good idea to have a large box or laundry basket handy for the pig to rest in between being worked on. Your pig will probably shiver during the entire process: try to keep it as warm as possible with towels, and keep away from cold breezes until completely recovered. If your pig is still shivering at the end of the drying process, wrap in dry towel and put it in a box with some hay (for eating) for about a half an hour until warmed up.

Start by giving your pig a bath as in the Grooming section above. Then condition the hair and let soak for a few minutes. This will reduce tangles for combing. If there are obvious mats at this time, carefully cut them out, cutting only what is needed to remove the mat. After a thorough rinsing, wrap the pig in a towel and let drain for several minutes.

Then place the pig on a raised area covered by a towel and begin to blow dry, fluffing the hair and being careful not to burn the skin. When the hair is about halfway dry, stop and carefully comb through the hair. Work through any tangles with your fingers and then the comb. Again cut out any mats that won't work out easily. Feel around the underneath of the animal too.

When the hair is combed out, you can start cutting. Decide what length would be good for the animal. Floor length is usually a good length to start with, then you can vary it according to the needs of your individual animal. Simply hold the hair in the comb and cut as evenly as you can. Your guinea pig will not be picky about his or her appearance, so it's ok if it's not exactly right.

If your guinea pig regularly has a urine soaked behind, then it's best to cut that area short. The way to do this is to cut the rear end hair to floor length, then lift up the hair on top and cut the hair underneath very short. This will keep your animal's good appearance and solve the problem of a messy behind at the same time. Note: When cutting a Peruvian, don't cut the top too short or the hair will stick straight up.

When finished cutting, dry the animal the rest of the way. If you have problems during any of this getting the animal to hold still, bribe it with food, especially during the hair cutting stage. An uncooperative animal can be held in your lap during the drying process. Also your pig may suddenly need a break and will become uncooperative in the middle of the process. Try putting the animal in it's drying box for a few minutes then start again.

If you have a male pig, you will need to check it’s peepee to see if there is any hair or hay wrapped up in it. If so, very slowly and gently work the item out. Never pull hard on anything in there. If there's hardened or stuck material, wet or soak the area and work on it with q-tips until it comes off. If surrounding hair is becoming a problem, you can trim it with scissors to keep it out of the way.

Another problem that seems to plague males is the anal sac. It can get very messy and smelly with litter, hay and a white sticky secretion. This is best cleaned with wet Q-tips. Hold the pig so that it's back is against your chest and spread the sac open with one hand. Then gently clean the out area with the wet q-tips. It will smell awful, but once you're done, the pig will be sweet as roses again. (PS. There is no medical reason for doing this, but it will help keep your pig smelling sweeter.) (Occasionally an older male will get impacted. To clean this, soak with warm water, and work on the area with q-tips and mineral oil to soften.)

There are many books that go into more detail about care and breeds of guinea pigs. If you find that you enjoy working with guinea pigs and want to learn more, I recommend the web, the american rabbit breeders association, American Cavy Breeders Association [http://acbaonline.com/] and 4^-H Clubs.

GP’s unlike other rodents, are born with their eyes and ears open and are fully furred. They walk within hours of birth, and mouth solid food within a few days. They will be drinking from the water bottle within the first week. They will nurse for the first 3-4 weeks. After that they can be safely taken away from the mother. They will be fully grown and sexually mature by 4-5 months, and by 8-9 months are mature adults. Their lifespan is 5-7 years. Birth weight is usually 3-4 oz, body length 3". Fully grown, they weigh between 1-3 pounds and are about 7-10 inches long, and 3-4" high.

If you plan to breed guinea pigs, you will need to start by investigating the breeds, carefully think out what you want to do, and discuss your plans with an established breeder, in order to be sucessful. You can start by going to the ACBA site above, reading the information and contacting some of their members.

I am including this section in case you end up with a pregnant pet pig, this is not a breeding guide.

As soon as you find out that your female is pregnant, you should immediately start dietary supplements such as fresh vegetables, sweet feed, higher protein pellets, etc. to make sure she is getting enough nutrients. In the absence of sweet feed, you can add molasses to her water. This is an iron and calcium supplement that will help support her during the pregnancy and nursing stages. Secondly, you should handle the pregnant female very carefully, esp in the end stages, taking care not to twist her body while moving her around. Guinea pigs are pregnant for about 72 days or 2-1/2 months. You may not know when your pig became pregnant, but there is a way to estimate the stages. Set your female on a solid surface facing away from you and (gently) cup your hands around the swellings towards her hips. If you do not feel any movement and the female is noticeable pregnant, but not large, she has a ways to go. About 3 weeks from birth, you should start feeling some fetal movement. At this point your female should look like a pear, and there should be no doubt in your mind when you look at her that she is pregnant. At about a week to go, your female should look impossibly large, fetal movement should be strong, and you may even be able to see her sides moving as she's resting. Keep a close eye on her because if she's going to get sick, now would be the time. On the last day, I've noticed the pregnant sow tends to rest more than normal.
However she should still be eating and moving around.

Symptoms of a lack of calcium include; shakiness, muscle tremors, jerking and weakness. If your sow shows any of these signs you need to get some calcium into her right away. Crush a plain chewable tums tablet and melt with a few drops of water. Feed this to the mother with a syringe or baby medicine dropper, slowly so you don't choke her. Do this every hour for a couple of hours if severe, less often if symptoms are mild, up to 3-4 times a day. Feed sugar-water and veggies in between to hydrate and check if she's still eating. You can bring a very sick pig back using this therapy, but don't feel bad if you can't save them. Other things can go wrong, like a labor that doesn't progress, which you can do little about.

Guinea pigs do not lay down to give birth. The also tend to give birth when everything is quiet, so you may not see the birthing process at all. If you do happen to be watching her when she goes into labor, she may jump like she has a hiccup, then will reach beneath her and pull the baby out with her teeth. She should immediately tear the sack away and start cleaning the baby. She may not be able to complete the job before the next baby arrives. If you can see that she's falling behind, you can help by picking the wet babies up and gently drying them with a towel. She will eat the afterbirths and lick up all the blood, so there's no need to do anything about that. Give her babies back to her and put them underneath her so they can stay warm. They should start nursing shortly. If she gives birth while you're not watching, chances are everything will be fine. If a baby does not make it though the birthing process, she will ignore it and you can remove it later. The most important thing at this stage is to keep the babies warm. I usually assure myself at this point at the babies will find a nipple, the mother will soon realize what these little things are that are in there with her and the world will continue to revolve.

In 4-6 hours, the babies should be cuddling with mom and each other, actively nursing, following mommy around, walking around, and being pests. If the babies seem lethargic or Mom won't let them near her, you may have a problem. The first thing you should check for is mastitis. Pick up your female and check the breast area. There should be swelling due to the milk, but if it is hardened you may have a blockage. The cure for this is to soak the female in warm water, massage the area, and hopefully be able to express a few drops of milk to get things flowing again. You might need two treatments to get this solved. If the babies continue being lethargic, don't let this situation go on too long! Get some evaporated milk diluted 2 or 3 times, and offer to them on a spoon. Don't force any liquids down a baby, since you can drown one easily. I do make sure to get some of the milk on their lips so they get the idea. If they are hungry at that point, they will eat. If not, put them back with mama, and and try again later if you don't see them nursing; or if there are 4 or more babies. You will notice that the female does not lay down to nurse, but will arch her body over them and the babies will dive underneath her to nurse and cuddle. Guinea pig babies can be held as much as you like, as long as they get nursing/eating breaks and are handled gently. The first week of nursing is critical, after that they will be able to eat enough solid food on their own to sustain themselves if necessary. They should be drinking from the water bottle between the 4th and 6th day. Hopefully they will make the rest of their babyhood with no problems, and at 4 weeks you should remove any males from their mother so you won't have any accidental pregnancies. If she hasn't already weaned them, make sure to leave at least one baby with her for a few days to drain off the rest of the milk. Then you'll be looking for homes for your little bundles of joy.

Sexing:

There are two ways to tell the sex of a guinea pig. Pick up the GP and hold it with it's back against your tummy. Look at the genitals. If you see an i, you have a male, females have a Y. If you are unsure you can also tell by watching their behavior. By 2-4 weeks males will start making rattling noises, and humping their mother and other roommates. Don't worry, they aren't functional yet, just practicing. Females will usually be on the receiving end, though they are capable of rattling also, it would be in self defence. You can also compare them to the mother and other pigs that you know the sex of.

Parasites

If you notice a lot of itching going on, check the hair to see if there are any tiny white bugs: these are guinea pig lice. They are species specific, since they can only catch them from other guinea pigs, and they cannot be spread to humans or other animals. (Also GP's won't catch fleas from dogs and cats, since those are "carnivore" parasites, they won't be interested in vegetarian blood.) Treat with kitten flea or mild cat flea shampoo, then rinse well and dry as normal. Be sure to clean their cage and all their implements thoroughly and rinse well before returning them to their home. You might want to repeat the dose in 2 weeks if you have a bad case. Also, if you find one pig with lice, you'll have to treat all your pigs in order to wipe out the infestation. If you don't want to shampoo, you can spray them instead with an antiparasitic spray for guinea pigs and rabbits.

GP’s can also get mites, though they are invisible to the eye, you will notice broken or thinning hair, with sores from scratching, usually on the back and sides. These can get complicated, and if a flea shampoo doesn’t work, you might need a trip to the vet to get rid of them. Ivermectin is a typical treatment. Fungus is also a possibility, guinea pigs can get ring worm and the like. Fungus is usually signified by hair that feels greasy, with a layer of gritty skin flakes on the surface. Staph infections can also occur. This is signified by a peeling of skin and hair, followed by the affected spot being red and irritated with large yellow scales. These two conditions can be treated with Mane & Tail Pro-Tect Shampoo. It is available at horse or feed stores. Lather pig and let soak for 5-10 minutes in solution, then rinse and dry as normal. You can repeat once a week until cured. For severe cases you can get medicated lotion from your vet or medical supply stores that contain an antibacterial/antifungal/steriodal mix.

Healthcare:

GP’s are not normally spayed or neutered, and do not need shots. Since their environment is completely controlled, it is up to us to separate the sexes unless you have a breeding plan. Guinea pigs are not normally treated for the typical cat/dog diseases and are immune to most of them. Though breeders sometimes treat with a systemic pesticide, the dosages are very complicated, and vets don't usually administer such preventatives. You would need to buy a supply from the internet if you are interested in dosing your own animals.

Guinea pigs most typical problem is red, sore feet. This is caused by standing in wet litter. You may need to clean their cage more often. If grossly neglected, this could lead to bumblefoot, which is open sores on the bottom of the foot accompanied by swelling. Mild skin problems may be cleared up by soaking, cleaning, peroxide, lotions and the like. Anything that does not clear up with home treatment should be referred to a vet. Abcesses are another common medical complaint. They usually start with a swelling or lump in the throat area that is just under the skin. These can get quite large and need to be drained, or you vet may prescribe an antibiotic such as Baytril to shrink them. I've had a few abcesses on the back too. Those can be drained at the vets (or by yourself if you're brave), then will need to be squeezed until all the pus is out, then syringed with peroxide.

Another less typical problem is respiratory. If you notice your pig sneezing or coughing, with congestion and mucus around the nose, eyes or on the front paws, he or she will need treatment. An occasional sneeze is not a problem unless accompanied by other symptoms. Congested eyes could be a sign of a greater problem, so check your pig carefully for other symptoms. You should not be able to hear the breathing of a normal pig when held.

If your pig appears to have stopped eating, or puts it’s head in a corner of the cage and/or won’t move, or is having trouble breathing, appears to be involuntarily jerking or seizing, (not popcorning-see "Talking" above) or has diarrhea that doesn’t clear up in a few hours, you need to seek medical help immediately!

It is a good idea to locate a vet ahead of time in case you ever have an emergency. Call around and ask the vets if they have any experience with guinea pigs. Guinea pigs have special needs that are different from dogs or cats, and are especially sensitive to certain antibiotics. They should never be given penicillin or it’s derivatives. Not all vets know this. If you pig does end up taking prescribed antibiotics, give doses of yogurt (strawberry flavor is good) to counteract the effects on their digestive systems, since they depend quite heavily on floral bacteria for digestion.

If you are looking for a recommendation, I have regularly used the Arizona Small Animal Clinic in Tucson, at 10 East 31st Street. From the north if you go down Stone, it will turn into Park, then go past 29th Street to 31st. From the east, 29th turns into Silverlake, then turn left onto Park. The phone number is 622-6231. Dr. Shannon Edwards is an extremely knowledgeable vet and charges very reasonable rates. Another vet I'd used in the past is Central Animal Hospital on Country Club & First Street. Dr. Samuels is also a good vet. Their number is 323-9912.

If you have a question or a problem, please give me a call at 520-293-8468. I'’ll make every effort to help you including finding your pig another home if things aren’t working out.

I learned much of what I know about GP’s from the web. There are many good websites can be found by doing a search for "guinea pigs" or "cavies". Cavy (kayvee) is the proper name for guinea pigs. You will find there are many nice people who breed guinea pigs for shows and have a lot of experience. It’s a great way to get advice and learn more detailed information. There are also lots of good pictures if you want to see the many breeds and varieties available.